Mercado de San Miguel hits you first with the scent—grilled octopus, fresh pastries, sizzling croquetas. It’s busy, but not chaotic. People stand elbow to elbow, trading small plates and nods of approval, chasing bold flavors with crisp vermouth. Everything’s ready to eat, everything’s photogenic, but it’s the mix of aromas and accents that gives it life. It’s not just for tourists—locals still come for the real stuff.

El Retiro, on the other hand, feels like a deep breath. Even with its size, it doesn’t overwhelm. You can walk twenty minutes and pass a rose garden, a puppet show, someone playing cello under a tree. Rowboats drift across the pond, and joggers quietly sidestep old couples feeding birds. It’s easy to find a quiet patch of shade and just stop—for an hour, or more. The city buzz fades the further you go in.